Mosi-Oa –Tunya: The smoke that thunders ( A tourist visit to Zambia)

A group of tour operators visited Zambia on a familiarisation tour to explore the possibility of multi-destination visits by tourists.

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Hitherto, the practice had been for tourists to visit one destination at a time. However, to experience different cultures and picturesque sites, the trend is for tour operators to organise multi-destination tours. The other fact is to reduce cost and time. 

Those who undertook the trip were the Chief Executive Officer of the Ghana Tourist Development Company and his deputy; the President of the Tour Operators Union of Ghana (TOUGHA); a past president of the Ghana Association of Travel and Tourist Agents (GATTA); a radio presenter and TV3 crew. The visit was facilitated by the High Commissioner of Zambia in Accra and Kenya Airways.

First visit

Our first visit was to Victoria Falls, known locally as ”Mosi-oa-Tunya” in the language of the Kololo people, meaning – The smoke that thunders - one of the seven wonders of the world. We were advised to wear something casual and it was a very good advice as we were drenched by the fine water spray of 550 million litres of water crashing over the 100-metre edge of the Victoria Falls every minute. It was a wonderful site to behold and we used our cameras and phones to take all the pictures we could. 

The most memorable aspect of the visit was a panoramic view of the Eastern cataract of the mighty Zambezi River over Knife Edge Bridge. This is one visit I certainly would not be in a hurry to undertake a second time. In spite of wearing the raincoats which we had hired, the fine spray soaked us to the skin. 

One has to hold the moss-laden rails to cross this bridge. In the middle of the bridge, I asked myself what I was doing there as the spray buffeted me from every side. It reminded me of a similar experience at Kakum in Ghana. In the middle of the rope walk, the ropes started swaying.

One could not return to base because other tourists were following one’s footsteps. The only alternative was to move forward while holding your breath and vowing not to look down, since you were on top of very tall trees. A director of the Zambia Tourism told me that this was an experience of a lifetime and I am glad I managed to cross the bridge not once but twice. 

History of David Livingstone

David Livingstone is credited to be the first European to have visited the falls which he named after Queen Victoria of England on November 16, 1855. After his visit, other adventurers, explorers, traders and missionaries followed him to exploit timber, ivory, animals and minerals and to extend imperial rule.  David Livingstone also campaigned to end the slave trade. 

Later in the evening, we went on a ride on the famous Royal Livingstone Express Train. The train’s carriages were simply beautiful and had a bar and restaurant. There was piped music in all the carriages and they were air conditioned. 

We had an accident, which is worth narrating to draw very useful lessons from and also to relate it to what pertains in Ghana. After about an hour into our journey, the engine drawing the carriages derailed but we did not panic. 

The head waiter announced the accident and said dinner would be served in the restaurant. We were escorted to the dining carriage, served with drinks and  very delicious three-course meals. Meanwhile, arrangements were made and after dinner, we were escorted down the rail track for about 100 to 150 metres to join buses to our hotels. 

If this had happened in Ghana this would have been the scenario: A radio station would have sent their field reporters scurrying to the site and they would file their eyewitness accounts; highly embellished, of course. Next, some of the tourists would be interviewed live and an expert on railroads would be contacted to give his opinion. 

A crowd would soon form around the scene, use mobile phones to take pictures and send them to their friends on WhatsApp, Instagram, Facebook, etc and the like. Incidentally, the next morning, the engine was put on the tracks and the incident did not make it in the daily newspapers. The high point of this was that a couple got engaged and the young man valiantly carried his highly inebriated bride on his back across the track, cheered on by all those on the train.

Our next activity was to visit Mukuni Big 5, where we had encounters with elephants. We rode on their backs and even fed them; the lions were touched, and had pictures taken with them and finally, we visited cheetahs and took pictures with them. I must admit that there was apprehension all around because for all of us, this was our first encounter with wild animals. 

Later, when it was pointed out to the High Commissioner that he was a little afraid, he said he was a freedom fighter and certainly not an animal fighter. You can imagine the laughter this generated.

At the reception, we met the Chief of Mukuni Village; a very enlightened and progressive chief who rides in a stretched limousine. He later invited us to his village where we met his subjects who had carvings of various animals, beads and drums for sale. They were well organised and their wares were well arranged. Like in Ghana, you had to bargain. We were lucky to have the High Commissioner with us and everything was reduced by about half. 

Flight of Angles

A helicopter ride over the Victoria Falls, aptly described as the Flight of Angels, was also undertaken with some of us clutching at every metal beam available in order not to fall from the sky.

Immediately after the Flight of Angels, we went on a cruise on the mighty Zambezi River on the deck of the Africa Queen. Again, light refreshment was  served. Along the river, we saw hippos and other tourists fishing. In between these tours, we visited hotels and lodges along the river. 

The uniquely designed high roofs were made of thatch and the rooms were cool and even though airconditioners were provided, we really did not need them. We saw many monkeys which  sneaked into rooms to steal sugar from tea/coffee tables and had good fun - laughing at the unfortunate visitors.

We were privileged to have met the Vice-President of Zambia, His Excellency Guy Scott (a white man born in Zambia), and you can bet we did not lose the opportunity to take pictures with him. At Nairobi Airport, we saw the fleet of Kenya Airways and accepted that Nairobi is really the HUB OF EAST AFRICA. What about Accra- ANY HOPE?

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 On the whole, the tour was very successful and the High Commissioner of Zambia and the Zambia Tourism Board, the various officials of the hotels and lodges, the various guides at the game park should be commended for making our visit truly memorable. 

gracett@africaonline.com.gh    /  reservations@gracelandtravelsgh.com 

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