Reviving Juapong: Ghana’s textile renaissance begins
Once a vibrant hub of Ghana’s textile industry, Juapong, a small town in the North Tongu District of the Volta Region, now stands as a shadow of its former self.
Established in 1968, Juapong Textiles Limited, later known as Volta Star Textiles, was a beacon of industrial prowess, producing high-quality grey baft that supplied local and regional textile industries.
At its peak, it employed thousands, fostered cultural pride through authentic Ghanaian designs, and was dubbed the “Pride
of Volta.”
Today, however, the town is synonymous with tragedy, its looms silent, its fabrics repurposed for pillows and wreaths for the dead.
The collapse of Juapong Textiles, driven by cheap imports, policy inconsistencies, and operational inefficiencies, has left the town a ghost of its past.
Yet, with strategic vision and bold action, Ghana can revive Juapong Textiles and transform it into a global brand, restoring economic vitality and cultural heritage.
The fall of Juapong Textiles
Juapong Textiles’ decline mirrors the broader challenges faced by Ghana’s garment and textile (G&T) industry.
In the 1970s, Ghana’s textile sector boasted 16major manufacturers and employed over 25,000 people, with Juapong as a cornerstone. However, the liberalization of trade in the 1980s and 1990s flooded the market with cheap imports, particularly from China, which undercut local producers. By 2005, Juapong Textiles faced closure, laying off 1,400 workers due to uncompetitive production costs, high energy bills, and a lack of local raw materials like cotton.
The factory’s brief revival in 2007 as Volta Star Textiles, supported by Chinese technical assistance, faltered by 2014 due to obsolete technology and unpaid debts, including a crippling power bill to the Electricity Company of Ghana.
As of July 2023, the factory remains non-operational, leaving over 1,200 workers unpaid and the town economically desolate.
The influx of second-hand clothing, with Ghana importing $121 million worth in 2023, has further exacerbated the crisis.
About 30-40% of the 12 million garments circulating weekly in Accra’s Kantamanto Market, West Africa ’ s largest second-hand clothing market, end up as waste in landfills or on beaches. This not only undermines local production but also poses a severe environmental challenge. The once-thriving town of Juapong, where textiles symbolized life and culture, now sees its materials used for mourning, reflecting a community in decline.
A blueprint for revival
Reviving Juapong Textiles and positioning it as a global brand requires a multi-faceted approach that addresses economic, cultural, and environmental challenges while leveraging Ghana’s rich textile heritage and modern market opportunities.
Below are key strategies to achieve this transformation:
1. Invest in modern infrastructure and technolog
The operational inefficiencies plaguing Juapong Textiles stem largely from outdated machinery. A 2023 government assessment highlighted the factory’s reliance on obsolete technology as a primary reason for its closure. To compete globally, Ghana must invest in state-of-the-art textile manufacturing equipment, focusing on energy-efficient and sustainable production methods.
Partnerships with international firms, as seen in the 2007 revival with Chinese technical assistance, could provide expertise and funding. Additionally, establishing a dedicated manufacturing hub, similar to the West Africa Trade and Investment Hub supported by USAID, would ensure modern infrastructure and high-wage jobs.
2. Develop a local cotton industry
A critical barrier to Juapong’s sustainability is Ghana’s lack of a robust cotton industry.
As Ralph Ayitey, National Treasurer of the Association of Ghana Industries, noted, neighboring countries like Burkina Faso and Benin have thriving cotton sectors, while Ghana relies on imported cotton, burdened by a 5% duty that increases production costs. Establishing a cotton processing factory to supply Juapong Textiles would create vertical integration, reduce costs, and ensure a steady supply of raw materials. Government incentives, such as tax exemptions for cotton farmers and subsidies for processing facilities, could jumpstart this initiative.
3. Implement the “Buy Ghana First” policy
Dr. Mahamudu Bawumia’s proposed “Buy Ghana First” policy, backed by law, prioritizes local manufacturers for public and private procurement, allowing imports only when local supply is insufficient.
This policy could significantly boost demand for Juapong’s grey baft, which is essential for producing high-quality African prints used by schools, hospitals, and other institutions across Ghana and West Africa. By enforcing local sourcing and cracking down on smuggling and counterfeit textiles, the government can create a protected market for Juapong’s products,
enhancing its competitiveness.
4. Leverage Ghana’s Cultural Heritage for Global Appeal
Juapong Textiles has a unique opportunity to capitalize on Ghana’s rich cultural heritage, particularly through iconic fabrics like Kente cloth. By focusing on high-quality, authentic designs that reflect Ghanaian identity, history, and social themes, Juapong can differentiate itself in the global market.
Collaborations with talented local designers and international fashion brands, as seen with emerging African labels like Osei-Duro, can elevate Juapong’s products to high-fashion status.
Social media and digital marketing, which have already fueled a partial comeback for Ghana’s G&T industry, should be harnessed to promote Juapong’s fabrics on global platforms, targeting African diaspora communities and fashion-conscious consumers worldwide.
5. Foster Public-Private Partnerships (PPPs)
The government alone cannot bear the burden of reviving Juapong Textiles. As suggested by Ghana Eximbank’s CEO, Sylvester Mensah, and Volta Star’s Managing Director, Jerome Dunyo, a public-private partnership model could attract private investment while maintaining public oversight.
This approach would provide the capital needed for modernization and debt resolution, such as the factory’s outstanding power bill, while ensuring operational efficiency through private sector expertise.
Incentives like tax waivers on raw materials and machinery, as implemented for Akosombo Textiles, could further attract investors.
6. Address the textile waste crisis
To compete with cheap imports and second-hand clothing, Ghana must address the textile waste crisis head-on.
Strengthening anti-smuggling measures and enforcing import controls, as advocated by the Anti-Piracy Task Force, would protect local manufacturers from counterfeit textiles.
Additionally, policies to regulate the quality of second-hand clothing imports, as suggested by industry experts, would reduce waste and support local production. By positioning Juapong as a sustainable alternative to fast fashion, Ghana can appeal to global consumers seeking ethical and environmentally friendly products.
Building a global brand
To transform Juapong Textiles into a global brand, Ghana must combine its cultural authenticity with modern business strategies. Here’s how:
• Brand Identity: Create a compelling brand story around Juapong’s legacy as the “Pride of Volta,” emphasizing its role in preserving Ghanaian heritage through iconic designs. A rebrand from Volta Star Textiles to a name that resonates globally, such as “Juapong Heritage Textiles,” could enhance marketability.
• Export Markets: Target West African and diaspora markets, where demand for authentic African textiles is strong, and explore opportunities in Europe and North America, where sustainable and cultural fashion is gaining traction.
• Sustainability Certifications: Pursue certifications like Fair Trade or Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) to appeal to eco-conscious consumers and increase Juapong’s credibility in global markets.
• Digital Presence: Invest in a robust online platform and social media campaigns to showcase Juapong’s designs, collaborating with influencers and designers to build a global following.
Economic and social impact
Reviving Juapong Textiles would have far-reaching benefits. Economically, it could create thousands of jobs, directly employing workers in production and indirectly supporting farmers, artisans, and logistics providers. At its peak, Juapong employed over 3,000 workers, and a revitalized factory could surpass this, boosting the local economy in North Tongu.
Socially, it would restore pride to a community that has suffered from unemployment and despair, transforming Juapong from a “town of tragedy” into a symbol of resilience and innovation. Environmentally, by reducing reliance on imported textiles and promoting sustainable practices, Juapong could help mitigate Ghana’s textile waste crisis.
Conclusion
The story of Juapong Textiles is one of lost glory but also untapped potential. By investing in modern technology, developing a local cotton industry, enforcing protective policies, and leveraging Ghana’s cultural heritage, the government and private sector can revive this once-proud institution.
Transforming Juapong Textiles into a global brand requires bold vision, strategic partnerships, and a commitment to sustainability. Ghana has the opportunity to not only restore Juapong’s industrial legacy but also position it as a leader in the global textile market, turning a ghost town into a beacon of hope and innovation. The time to act is now. Juapong’s looms must weave again, not for wreaths, but for a vibrant future.
