Going places with Kofi Akpabli : Abokobi — Blessed in the books of history (3)
The ever-increasing growth of the population overwhelmed the missionaries who were combining religious matters with secular administration.
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To handle the challenge, the believers took a cue from Jethro’s advice to Moses in Exodus 18:18 and decided to decouple the two functions by appointing a well-behaved indigenous Christian to handle the secular administration under their supervision.
Initially, this person’s title was a “Headman.” This arrangement enabled them to concentrate more on church growth and evangelism which were very crucial during the period. This was the genesis of the dual system of governance at Abokobi.
Among the first converts of the missionaries was a hardened fetish priest called Ataa-Mohenu, who was described as the most sensational “catch” of the missionaries.
He was converted, baptised, and given a Christian name. Paul, for that was his new name, became a most influential evangelist. Like Paul of the Old Testament, Numo Paulo Mohenu, devoted the rest of his lifetime to propagating the Good news to the people along the coast up to Ada areas and some Fanti lands.
For a very long time the major landmark that became associated with Abokobi was a very tall tree standing right at the entrance of the cemetery. The barkcloth tree known in Ga as ‘’Kojo’’ provided the first shelter when the Basel missionaries and their converts arrived at Abokobi.
Before any building could be put up, the settlers found the tree very useful. In the daytime, it protected them from the scorching sun as classes were held in its shade for the seminary students.
In the evening, the missionaries and their converts gathered around a campfire under the tree to share the word of God, hold classes and to play games.
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When eventually buildings were put up and various activities were held indoors, the tree was not totally abandoned. A cemetery was placed behind it.
It therefore stood at the entrance of the cemetery serving as a landmark of the town. On April 6, 2007, it was blown down by a rather wild rainstorm heralding the end of an era. Though tall and huge, the fall was gentle and the destruction caused was minimal. The age of the tree is estimated to be about 200 years.
One other factor which makes Abokobi special is the chieftaincy. This institution at Abokobi is based on Christian virtues and guidance as stated in the Holy Scriptures. Chieftaincy at Abokobi is largely an extension of the church. The Chief (Abokobi Mantse), therefore, defers to the leader of the Presby Church in the community.
To become a chief one must be Presbyterian belonging to the Zimmermann Church of Abokobi. The chief must also be able to preach the word of God to a congregation. There is no traditional palace and each chief operates from his house. Also unique to Abokobi chieftaincy is the fact that it is not hereditary.
The royal family of Abokobi is the Presbyterian Church, with the linguist staff of the Abokobi chieftaincy being the Bible. The chief takes charge of all political and secular matters while the District Minister of the Presbyterian Church presides over all religious and spiritual matters.
Today, this small town with a big history is still getting by. Though the potential is great, tourism activity is minimal. There are two hotels, namely Presbyterian Women Centre and Guest Villa. As I stroll through the narrow sidewalks I see remnants of an ancient past. One still sees signs of old disused street lanes.
One thing that made me sad was the deplorable nature of the Abokobi Presby School buildings. These are historic monuments but the least said about the state of the structures, the better. To those in charge, this is an avant-garde school that has turned out very influential Gold Coasters and Ghanaians.
At Abokobi there are some interesting giant-pillared entrance posts fronting some homes. The Basel architecture of semi-wooden one storey houses is still standing in the town. Some other houses are in bricks. There is a historic church cemetery where more than 12 European missionaries and some of their families were laid to rest.
Unlike what you see in many parts of Accra, their homes and surroundings are clean. However, although alcohol is not supposed to be sold in this town, I came across a couple of joints where liquor was available.
I guess at Abokobi, Christian residents who habitually patronise these bars would be seeking refuge in Matthew Chapter 6 verse 12: ‘‘And forgive us our trespasses.’’
The End