Sierra Leone: A destination awakening with soul, sea and story

I touched down in Sierra Leone just after 8 a.m. last Monday, and it didn’t take long to realise this wasn’t going to be an ordinary arrival.

Unlike most capital cities, where you’re greeted with tarmac and traffic, arriving in Freetown means beginning your journey on water. From Lungi International Airport, you don’t simply drive into the city – you cross the Atlantic to reach it.

Boarding a water taxi, we sliced through the ocean, the salt wind crisp on our faces, the Freetown skyline slowly coming into view.

It felt cinematic – almost symbolic. As if the country insists you earn your first impression with a taste of its natural drama. Once you arrive, the real story begins.

Over the past few days, Sierra Leone has unfolded in layers – revealing a land shaped by beauty, resilience, ambition and a quiet sense of promise.

Sierra Leone’s beaches beckon

Few countries on the continent can boast beaches as wild and breathtaking as Sierra Leone’s. From the spirited surf of Bureh Beach to the tranquil stretches of Tokeh and No. 2 River Beach, these shores are more than scenic – they are deeply embedded in community and culture.

But they are also under threat. Unregulated sand winning – the extraction of beach sand for construction – is visibly degrading the coastline.

Without urgent intervention, the sands that draw visitors may vanish, and even worse, affect the draw and beauty of the beaches. 

Yet, there are signs of hope. At Bureh, a World Bank–supported initiative is establishing facilities for a surf club that will support local talent and attract regional surfers. It’s a forward-thinking move – blending sustainability with sport and community tourism.

Further uphill, Leicester Peak offers sweeping views of Freetown and the Atlantic. Its transformation into a formal lookout point is almost complete – with a launch planned for September. Once opened, it promises to become a major highlight for both domestic and international tourists.

Nearby, Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary continues to stand out as a beacon of eco-tourism – home to over 130 chimpanzees.

It fuses conservation, education and immersive visitor experiences.

However, like the beaches, it too faces pressure from encroachment by informal settlements.

Together, these sites form a powerful nature-based tourism circuit – one that, if protected and properly promoted, could firmly place Sierra Leone among the top ecotourism destinations in Africa.

Taste of Sierra Leone

One of the standout pleasures of this visit has been discovering the depth and identity of Sierra Leonean cuisine. From hotels to roadside stalls, from seaside grills to family-run eateries, the food here is robust, layered and full of character.

Meals are rarely rushed – they are served with pride, often accompanied by an explanation or story.

The spices are bold, the portions generous, and every bite carries a sense of rootedness — in land, in culture, in community.

In 2026, Sierra Leone will host the 3rd UN Tourism Gastronomy Forum for Africa. It’s a timely recognition — not only of what’s on the plate but of the way the country’s food culture is poised to shape its tourism narrative.

Across Africa, gastronomy is emerging as a pillar of experiential travel — and Sierra Leone is preparing to take its seat at the table.

Beyond beaches and food, what truly sets Sierra Leone apart is its creative energy – alive in its people, its stories and its streets.

Across Freetown, I visited one important hub where young creatives are turning art, music, fashion and design into tools for transformation.

At Creative Hub Africa, I saw talent being mentored and ideas being shaped – evidence that the creative economy is not just imagined here, but actively growing.

The spirit of inclusion and expression reached its peak on Thursday night, at a remarkable runway event on the theme: “Celebrating Inclusion Through Fashion”.

The event, which was organised by the Ministry of Tourism and Cultural Affairs in partnership with the Fashion Design and Textstyle Association of Sierra Leone, brought together professional models, people living with albinism, and even government figures such as Nabeela Farida Tunis.

It was more than a show – it was a statement. One that affirmed: inclusion isn’t just a policy in Sierra Leone – it’s a practice.

Tourism at crossroads

For all its potential, Sierra Leone’s tourism ambitions face real obstacles.

The most visible is sand winning, which threatens the sustainability of its most treasured coastal sites.

The environmental degradation is already measurable – from receding beaches to disrupted ecosystems.

At Tacugama, land encroachment by nearby settlements has led to temporary closures of parts of the sanctuary – a reminder of how fragile the balance is between development and preservation.
Infrastructure also remains a challenge.

Rough access roads, poor signage and minimal visitor facilities make exploring some sites difficult.

These aren’t insurmountable problems – but they require urgency, coordination and commitment.

Looking ahead with purpose, pride

Despite these hurdles, hope prevails.

Sierra Leone holds what many destinations are searching for – authenticity, natural beauty, and a deep cultural heartbeat.

With focused investment, clear land-use policies, and a continued commitment to sustainability, the country can chart a powerful path forward. 

From gastronomy to eco-tourism, from fashion to conservation, Sierra Leone is building –  not fast and flashy, but slow and steady, with purpose.

As I prepare to explore more of this country in the days ahead, I leave Freetown with a clear impression: Sierra Leone isn’t just a place to visit – it’s a place to feel.

And once you feel it, you won’t forget it.

— Francis Doku writes the weekly ‘Explore Africa’ column, covering travel, culture and tourism transformation across the continent.